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dotta
Byla bym bardzo wdzieczna gdyby mi ktos wyjasnil wlasnie owa roznice. Dokladniej mowiac miedzy fartuchem szwedki a dunki dunno.gif (IXw). Przegladalam na forum gdzie byly poruszane tematy ubioru kobiecego, ale nie znalazmam rozwiazania na moje watpliwosci icon_redface.gif
Rabiega
Rekonstrukcje wczesno¶redniowieczne stroju kobiecego omawiane by³y ju¿ na tym forum. Wiele z tych omówieñ opiera siê na domniemaniach i przypuszczeniach.¯róde³ bowiem zbyt wielu nie ma.
Za¶ ró¿nic miêdzy odzieniem jutlandzkim a skandynawskim raczej bym siê nie dopatrywa³. To jeden kr±g kulturowy i cywilizacyjny.
Je¶li siê mylê, proszê o sprostowanie, ju¿ kiedy¶ ob¶miewa³em siê z tematu grenlandzkiego, jak siê okaza³o - nies³usznie. Chêtnie i teraz dowiem siê czego¶ nowego.

K³aniam.
Vlasta
Hej! Czyta³am kiedy¶ taki artyku³ Anne Hedeager Madsen: "Women's dress in the Viking period in Denmark, based on the tortoise brooches and textile remains" [w:]Walton, Penelope, and Wild, John P.," Textiles in Northern Archaeology: NESAT III Textile Symposium in York 6-9 May 1987", i o ile dobrze pamiêtam, to autorka wspomina³a, ¿e w Danii znaleziono bardzo ma³o brosz ¿ó³wiowatych w porównaniu do reszty Skandynawii, i t³umaczy to zapo¿yczeniami odzie¿owymi z terenów Niemiec. Jak bêdê mia³a trochê czasu, to postaram siê zajrzeæ do biblioteki i to sprawdziæ, bo artyku³ czyta³am dawno, i nie pamiêtam szczegó³ów.
Pozdrawiam!
Vlasta
Vlasta
Przejrza³am w/w artyku³ dzisiaj i gwoli u¶ci¶lenia - rzeczywi¶cie, brosze ¿ó³wiowate by³y w Danii mniej popularne ni¿ np. w Szewcji, ale dotyczy to w wiêkszym stopniu X wieku. Wrzucam kawa³ki artyku³u, moze w czym¶ siê przyda:
The distribution of tortoise brooches in Denmark
According to my register 232 tortoise brooches of the Viking period are known in Denmark. This is only a fifth of the number known from either Sweden or Norway. In general they show an easterly distribution, by far the greater number being found on the islands and in East Jutland. In addiction, the majority of finds with tortoise brooches are from the 9th century. 70 discoveries belonging to this period, while only 32 are known from the 10th century, in both cases excepting Bornholm. In other words there are twice as many finds with tortoise brooches from the 9th century as from the 10th. In general, also, there is a greater geographical spread of tortoise broohes in the 9th century, whereas in the 10th they are more centralized. (autorka t³umaczy t± ró¿nicê miedzy IX i X w. wp³ywami frankijskimi i chrystianizacj± w X w.).
Dalej przywo³ywane s± opisy strojów z broszami:
A Danish example of this costume comes from Kostrup on Funen, where a woman was buried with tortoise brooches in the 10th century. The textile impressions in the Kostrup brooches resemble closely those of the rich Swedish women’s graves from Birka.
i bez brosz, gdzie autorka zauwa¿a, ¿e brosz ¿ó³wiowatych brak zarówno w grobach ubogich, jak i zamo¿nych:
It is more significant, however, that tortoise brooches are absent in very rich graves. Two examples of Jutland can be given, the first from Hvilehoj near Randers. Here in 1880 a very rich grave was found in a low tumulus, dating to the 10th century. The wealthy grave furnishings included 16 gold-in-glass beads and remains of the costume, comprising a silk material with woven and embroidered decoration in gold thread, fragments of a brown wool material with cross-shaped embroidery, together with a very fine brown fur and compressed down and feathers. Both the burial furnishings and the textiles suggest that the grave was that of a lady of distinction. Silk, for example, is found in only a very few Viking-period graves in Denmark and must have been imported. There were no shoulder brooches, and the lady’s costume had been Frankish-inspired, with a peplos-like garment of silk and, above it, a unic and a cape, both of wool.
A similar situation is found in a chamber-tomb at Horning, also dated to the 10th century. While a torough treatment of the contents is not yet available, the grave is interpreted as that of a woman, admittedly only on the evidence of beads. In the grave were found remains of enough clothing to give the impression of a costume of distinctions, inluding in places edgings in silver thread. These very thin threads had completely dissolved, but some of the resultant silver compounds had had a conserving effect, preserving fragments of the material, and even of the pattern, whih consisted of diamonds and rhomboids. There was a broad ribbon from the border of the cloak or wrap, of the same type as that shown worn by women on the 9th century Oseberg tapestry.
Pozdrawiam!
Vlasta
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